Comments on: 2 point lighting ~ Techniques and strategies revealed

By: damien

damien — Sun, 31 Oct 2010 21:43:54 +0000

Hi Rod,

The process of shooting creative pictures with extremes of increased exposure requires an organic approach. Not one that relies on exposure meters. I merely use the exposure difference as a reference based upon experience. With Nikon cameras the look can be achieved in A mode but on a Canon 5D mk 2 there is only 2 stops of exposure compensation available hence my shooting in Manual mode. I use the camera screen as a reference to how the picture looks. I increase exposure until the picture screams then I knock it back a bit.

Kindest regards, Damien.

By: Rod

Rod — Thu, 21 Oct 2010 15:59:49 +0000

Lovely work! I wonder if you could elaborate on something for me?

In the second pic of the bride in the stone doorway type thing, you said that the background is 5 stops lighter than the foreground. Could you just explain on a few things? Firstly how you lit the back ground? Was it just sunlight or did you have a flash? And how about the key light? Is it just a strobe? How did you meter it all?

I’m just trying to work out how I would go about shooting this. Presuming the backlight is just sunlight blown out, I presume you’d start with a couple of test shots until the back ground is naturally very over exposed – highest ISO/F stop possible? Then I guess when you have the amount of exposure right for the backlight you have to bring the keylight in.

How did you know you needed it 5 stops darker? Let’s say you had arrived at f 2.8 to get the backlight right, would you then get your meter out and fire the flash until the meter reads five stops darker for the keylight? i:e, F16?

Sorry, many questions all rolled into one I know. I just can’t think how else to ask this question!

By: nitin satghare

nitin satghare — Mon, 13 Sep 2010 17:04:59 +0000

excelent ,the way you explain is very good.thanks

By: damien

damien — Mon, 18 Jan 2010 23:33:33 +0000

Hi Denz and Chris, I just get used to it. What I really, really want is an OLED very high resolution touch screen. A double click on the zone to zoom into would then be the best ever tool. The new iPhone due out by June will have this for sure so why not a camera costing 5 times as much?

By: Denz

Denz — Mon, 18 Jan 2010 13:52:29 +0000

Chris, well if the Nikons have the 1:1 zoom quick function – there’s no hope it appearing on my Canon 5D2 due to patents – just like Nikon has a patent with the one-button disable flash.
Even a double-click to zoom 1:1 would help Canon.

By: Chris

Chris — Mon, 18 Jan 2010 13:42:22 +0000

on the D3 and i think the D700 you can go into the custom menu function F1 and program the multi selector to zoom the screen to near 100%

By: Denz

Denz — Mon, 18 Jan 2010 13:09:47 +0000

Isn’t it amazing that there is no 100% view button on the back of our cameras – The amount of time I waste zooming in to check sharpness……

By: JC

JC — Mon, 11 Jan 2010 07:36:29 +0000

Thank you so much for your answer, Damien.

By: damien

damien — Sat, 09 Jan 2010 00:04:41 +0000

Hi Martin, I just came across your answer as I worked my way up the comments in my admin area. Your comments are my sentiments exactly. All three Arris are about the same price so the choice is best made for suitability of purpose over price. Damien.

By: damien

damien — Fri, 08 Jan 2010 23:59:59 +0000

Hi JC,
I use the Arri 300 because it gives me ISO 800 1/60th at f/4 at 3 metres working distance on full flood. This means I can integrate the light with existing light sources on location. Perfect for winter weddings. The 650 comes into its own for longer throws or when used with a diffusion material to make an instant soft key. The 150 is perfect for back lights and kick lights. Damien.

By: JC

JC — Fri, 08 Jan 2010 23:29:18 +0000

Oops, sorry for misaddressed reply, Martin. And thanks a lot again.

By: martin

martin — Fri, 08 Jan 2010 12:28:46 +0000

That wasn’t Damien’s reply he may have a different view

By: JC

JC — Fri, 08 Jan 2010 12:22:03 +0000

Thank you so much for your answer, Damien. It surely helps me a lot to choose what to consider to my lighting gears.

By: martin

martin — Fri, 08 Jan 2010 09:41:32 +0000

JC: I recently bought a 300w Arri. It is bright enough to use as the key light and will easily give you 1/60th @f/4 even with a reasonable light to subject distance. The 650w is brighter but that’s not necessarily a good thing (uncomfortable for the subject) its also bigger, heavier and I guess more expensive.

The 150 isn’t really bright enough to use as a key unless you know you are always going to be working with the light close, but it would be ideal as a kick or hair light. I’m going to get one of those, in the meantime I use a gelled speedlight in TTL mode alomgside the 300w.

HTH,

Martin

By: JC

JC — Thu, 07 Jan 2010 16:03:55 +0000

Great job, Damien.

I was wondering about your Arri 300. I found that it is a brilliant idea. Can you kindly tell the reason that you use Arri 300 instead of using Arri 150 or 650 and do you use Arii 300 just inside or ouside as well (does Arri 300 have enough power to be a key light outside)?

Thanks a lot.